|
Antique books sale and auctions in the
Antique Web!
Antique
Books Preservation
Frequently Asked Questions on Book Preservation
How should I store my books?
Store books out of direct sunlight and where air can circulate freely. Store
them away from windows and don't put them on shelves against outside walls.
Store books on flat, smooth shelves that are strong enough to support their
weight. Ideally, books should not be in contact with unsealed wood because it
can release damaging acidic vapors. Line shelves with acid free board to prevent
this problem. Stand books vertically side by side. Keep similar sizes together:
small books next to small books, and large books next to large books. Use
bookends to keep the books from falling over, and be sure they are high enough
to support the books completely.
Avoid storing books in an attic or basement because attics get too hot and
basements get too damp. Both are also subject to rapid changes in temperature
and humidity levels. Keep books out from under plumbing and water pipes; water
damage from these sources is all too common.
To protect books with monetary or sentimental value, keep them in
custom-fitted archival boxes made from high-quality materials.
Protect such items by hinging them into mats that have both a back board and
a window board. Ask your picture framer for museum-quality mat board. To be of
museum quality, the board must be free of acid (alkaline, ideally pH 7to pH 9)
and colored with non-damaging dyes that don't run if they get wet. The board
could be 100% cotton rag or chemically purified wood pulp (high alpha-cellulose
and negative to lignin). Poor quality mats can damage the pictures they are
supposed to protect. The most common damage is dark yellow staining,
particularly around the edges of the window mat that frames the picture. Known
as "matburn," the stain is caused by migration of acidic components in the
board. Matburn can discolor an item dramatically and is also an indication of
chemical damage to the paper.
The method used to mount the document or picture in the mat is critical. It
should be attached to the backboard of the mat with long-fibered paper hinges
(Japanese paper, usually) and cooked starch paste. Although a straightforward
procedure, accomplishing it successfully can be tricky, so it's best to leave
the task to a trained conservator or professional picture framer. A less
complicated, but still archivally sound, alternative is secure the item in the
mat with photocorners. High-quality polyester or paper photocorners can be
purchased from conservation suppliers.
NEVER hinge pictures with pressure-sensitive tape (including masking tape,
"invisible" tape, quick-release tape, cellophane tape, double-stick tape, and
the so-called "archival" tapes)). NEVER use rubber cement, stick glue, spray
adhesives, or dry-mount adhesives. Do not use brown paper tape
(moisture-activated gummed adhesive) or animal glues. All tapes and adhesives of
these types will stain the paper and and may cause inks and colors to "bleed."
Many lose their adhesive properties and fall off with age, leaving behind a
residue that is unsightly, damaging to the item, and difficult (or impossible)
to remove. If removal of such adhesives and the stains they cause is possible,
the work should only be entrusted to a trained conservator. Improper treatment
can damage items irrevocably, greatly reducing their beauty and value.
Use a good frame that is well-constructed and has mitred joints. The frame
should be sturdy enough to support the weight of the object. Glass or acrylic
should be used as glazing. Glazing should never touch the work of art. The
preservation purpose of a window mat or spacer is to prevent such contact.
All light, natural and artificial, damages paper-based materials. Sunlight
and fluorescent lights are particularly damaging. Light damage can be reduced by
using ultraviolet-filtering glazing. Acrylic glazing should not be used in the
framing of pastels, charcoal drawings, or pictures with flaking pigments because
they tend to develop a static charge that can lift powdery media right off the
paper.
If the document or art work to be framed needs conservation treatment, a
conservator should be consulted before any work is undertaken. This is
particularly the case with items that have high monetary, historic, or
sentimental value. A referral service that can help you find an appropriate
conservator or conservation treatment center is maintained by The Foundation of
the American Institute for Conservation (FAIC):
The Foundation of the American Institute for Conservation (FAIC)
1717 K Street Street, NW, Suite 301
Washington, D.C. 20006
Sarah Z. Rosenberg, Executive Director
Telephone (202) 452-9545
FAX (202) 452-9328
vnyaic@aol.com
Can I save wet books? What if my books are moldy?
Yes. Books can be air-dried, or frozen and then dried at a later date.
The most important thing to do to save your wet books is to take action
immediately, or as soon as possible, after they have gotten wet. In warm and
humid conditions, mold can begin to grow within 24-48 hours after the materials
have gotten wet. Stabilize and air dry as much of the collection as possible.
What cannot be air-dried in 48 hours, can probably be frozen to stabilize and
dry at a later time. Check with a conservator.
Fan volumes open and stand them on the top or bottom edge on an absorbent
material which is changed as it becomes wet. As the book dries turn it
upside-down. Humidity levels should be maintained below 75% RH with
dehumidifiers. Low temperatures will assist in the avoidance of mold problems.
Increasing air circulation will dry out most items efficiently. Use electric
fans to provide maximum air circulation, but do not point them directly at the
drying books. Weather permitting, set up a drying space outdoors, under cover.
Mold is the greatest risk and hazard, both to books and to humans. If you
suspect or see mold, or think that the water may have been contaminated with
sewage or harmful chemicals, you must wear protective clothing, gloves, and a
mask while salvaging your books. Also, take strict precautions to protect your
skin and lungs. If mold is present, seek professional advice and proceed with
caution. If any negative health effects are observed, contact a doctor,
mycologist, or both, before proceeding. Local colleges and universities can help
you find a mycologist.
How can I get rid of the smell of mildew in my books?
The smell comes from biological growth on books that are stored in damp,
dark, cool locations. Check for active or dormant mold. Remove the materials to
a drier (but still cool) environment, and make sure that plenty of air is
circulating around them. These conditions should render the biological growth
dormant. If the mildewed materials are stored for an extended period under such
coonditions, the smell will eventually disappear of its own accord. The same
technique can be applied to dry books affected with active mold. If you can see
mold growth, DO NOT attempt to clean it off under the materials are thoroughly
dry. Premature clearning attempts will grind the mold into the covers or paper
and cause stains that are often impossible to remove.
A short exposure to sunlight and circulating air outdoors also may help to
rid the books of the mildew smell. Remember, though, that light damages
paper-based materials. Drying materials in the sunlight may result in some
darkening or fading of book materials and paper, so select this approach only
with materials for which such damage is considered acceptable.
I have an infestation. How can I get rid of bugs in my books?
Identify the bug if possible (trap one with sticky pest strips) and try to
answer the following questions that a professional will ask you:
- Is the insect already dead or alive and how many insects are there?
- How many books are affected and with what kind of damage?
- Have you seen insects like these elsewhere in your home?
- Where have the books been stored and are they damp or moldy?
- How valuable and old are the books?
Isolate the affected books by placing them in a tightly sealed plastic bag.
Seek assistance from an entomologist. A local university or state extension
service should be able to put you in touch with one. Fumigation must be
performed by professionals under controlled conditions. Non-chemical preventive
measures against insects include:
- Seal entry points including windows, doors and put filters on vents.
- Keep room temperatures and humidity levels low (insects need water, too).
- Keep the environment clean and dusted, and don't store books near food or
rubbish, etc.
Dessicant dusts like diatomaceous earth or silica, can be used around the
perimeters of a room, but will not be effective for insects with a winged
portion of the life cycle.
How can I preserve my newspaper clippings?
Newspaper is made from wood fibers and it will turn dark and brittle very
quickly, particularly when exposed to light. Although it can be chemically
treated to slow down further deterioration, many of the treatments will also
darken the paper. Newspaper will damage other paper or photographic materials
with which they are stored if the other items are not protected from them.
The only way to preserve the original is to store them properly:
- Place clipping in a polyester film folder with a sheet of alkaline
buffered paper behind it.
- Put the polyester folders in file folders and boxes of high-quality
acid-free, alkaline buffered materials.
- Store in a cool and dry location, such as a closet in an air-conditioned
room.
The leather on my books is worn and scuffed. Should I oil my leather
books?
Leather dressings were at one time thought to be useful in extending the life
of leather bindings. Experience has shown, however, that the benefit is
primarily cosmetic and that inexpert use of leather dressing does more harm than
good. Studies have shown that leather dressing can cause the leather to dry out
over time. Leather may become stiffer, accompanied by darkening or surface
staining. If too much dressing is applied too frequently, the surface of the
leather may become sticky and attract dust and the oil stains and deteriorates
the paper.
Consolidants like Klucel G (food-grade) can be applied by book conservators
to bind dry rotted leather and keep it from offsetting onto other books or
textblocks. For handling purposes, polyester film jackets can be made for books.
Article from the Preservation Directorate: Library of Congress
The preservation procedures described here have been used by the Library of
Congress in the care of its collections and are considered suitable by the
Library as described; however, the Library will not be responsible for damage to
your collection should damage result from the use of these procedures.
Do
you know something about
Antique books?
Publish your articles here.
|
