NEVER hinge pictures with pressure-sensitive tape (including masking tape, "invisible" tape, quick-release tape, cellophane tape, double-stick tape, and the so-called "archival" tapes)). NEVER use rubber cement, stick glue, spray adhesives, or dry-mount adhesives. Do not use brown paper tape (moisture-activated gummed adhesive) or animal glues. All tapes and adhesives of these types will stain the paper and and may cause inks and colors to "bleed." Many lose their adhesive properties and fall off with age, leaving behind a residue that is unsightly, damaging to the item, and difficult (or impossible) to remove. If removal of such adhesives and the stains they cause is possible, the work should only be entrusted to a trained conservator. Improper treatment can damage items irrevocably, greatly reducing their beauty and value.

Use a good frame that is well-constructed and has mitred joints. The frame should be sturdy enough to support the weight of the object. Glass or acrylic should be used as glazing. Glazing should never touch the work of art. The preservation purpose of a window mat or spacer is to prevent such contact.

All light, natural and artificial, damages paper-based materials. Sunlight and fluorescent lights are particularly damaging. Light damage can be reduced by using ultraviolet-filtering glazing. Acrylic glazing should not be used in the framing of pastels, charcoal drawings, or pictures with flaking pigments because they tend to develop a static charge that can lift powdery media right off the paper.

If the document or art work to be framed needs conservation treatment, a conservator should be consulted before any work is undertaken. This is particularly the case with items that have high monetary, historic, or sentimental value. A referral service that can help you find an appropriate conservator or conservation treatment center is maintained by The Foundation of the American Institute for Conservation (FAIC):
 

Can I save wet books? What if my books are moldy?

Yes. Books can be air-dried, or frozen and then dried at a later date.

The most important thing to do to save your wet books is to take action immediately, or as soon as possible, after they have gotten wet. In warm and humid conditions, mold can begin to grow within 24-48 hours after the materials have gotten wet. Stabilize and air dry as much of the collection as possible. What cannot be air-dried in 48 hours, can probably be frozen to stabilize and dry at a later time. Check with a conservator.

Fan volumes open and stand them on the top or bottom edge on an absorbent material which is changed as it becomes wet. As the book dries turn it upside-down. Humidity levels should be maintained below 75% RH with dehumidifiers. Low temperatures will assist in the avoidance of mold problems.

Increasing air circulation will dry out most items efficiently. Use electric fans to provide maximum air circulation, but do not point them directly at the drying books. Weather permitting, set up a drying space outdoors, under cover.

Mold is the greatest risk and hazard, both to books and to humans. If you suspect or see mold, or think that the water may have been contaminated with sewage or harmful chemicals, you must wear protective clothing, gloves, and a mask while salvaging your books. Also, take strict precautions to protect your skin and lungs. If mold is present, seek professional advice and proceed with caution. If any negative health effects are observed, contact a doctor, mycologist, or both, before proceeding. Local colleges and universities can help you find a mycologist.
 

How can I get rid of the smell of mildew in my books?

The smell comes from biological growth on books that are stored in damp, dark, cool locations. Check for active or dormant mold. Remove the materials to a drier (but still cool) environment, and make sure that plenty of air is circulating around them. These conditions should render the biological growth dormant. If the mildewed materials are stored for an extended period under such coonditions, the smell will eventually disappear of its own accord. The same technique can be applied to dry books affected with active mold. If you can see mold growth, DO NOT attempt to clean it off under the materials are thoroughly dry. Premature clearning attempts will grind the mold into the covers or paper and cause stains that are often impossible to remove.

A short exposure to sunlight and circulating air outdoors also may help to rid the books of the mildew smell. Remember, though, that light damages paper-based materials. Drying materials in the sunlight may result in some darkening or fading of book materials and paper, so select this approach only with materials for which such damage is considered acceptable.

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